France 2011 part 2

Saturday 9th July Beaulieu sur Dordogne. 7.00pm - warm but cloudy. 

Finally got email sent on Saturday (or at least we think we did). Tried unsuccessfully at McDonalds and on the campsite wi-fi but without success. In the end resorted to PC shop and used their network. Will know if it worked when we get a reply or two, but they’re not obligatory! 

(For those of you to whom this is relevant Mike’s also wondering how Joseph is coming along. Would have liked to have heard that.) 

Chapelle at Beaulieu sur Dordogne

Had a couple of walks around the town/village today and even more impressed now. Cloudy day again but warm with some very light rain for a few minutes. 

Monday – hot and sunny from 7.00am. Journeyed out and visited the Gouffre de Padirac. Second largest cavern in Europe apparently. WELL worth a visit next time you’re in the area! You’ve been, Samantha and Natalie, but about twenty years ago we think! Bit of shopping in Leclerc on way back and then a few submersions in the river to cool off throughout the afternoon. Almost finished our first reading books (so not been doing much reading). Had a meal out this evening in village square under beautiful plane trees (Natalie!). I had savoury crepe (galette) with salmon and crème fraiche and Alison had steak and chips. Now quarter to ten and the sun is just about beginning to set and the midges about beginning to bite. 

Tomorrow we’re exploring UP river along the gorges du Dordogne-along ‘white’ roads and we’ll see where we end up for the night but possibly somewhere France Passion or an aire. 

Barrages du Chastang

Tuesday-left Beaulieu and headed up Dordogne valley keeping as close to the river as possible. Came across a number of barrages with large artificial lakes behind them. River looked very inviting but there were constant warnings of sudden and unannounced water level rises as water may be released from the dams for hydro electric generation. Hot, sticky day which felt stormy towards the afternoon when we arrived at the aire in Bort les Orgues ('Orgues' because the surrounding cliffs high on the hills reminded somebody some time ago of organ pipes). We arrived just in time, as half an hour later, and for much of the evening, the aire had filled but still more motorhomes kept appearing and trying to squeeze in and eventually departing for goodness knows where. We had to smile at one point when one particular van appeared and spent almost six minutes manoeuvring backwards and forwards before the engine was eventually turned off, at which point a driver of another van began his applause! And then came Blaire’s text saying that they’d been warned of a tempete that evening. WE got it at about half past nine and suddenly night was like day again – thunder, lightning, torrential rain, hail and very strong winds – the rain lasting all night – and all the following day! 

This is the upper Dordogne after a 

bit of heavy rain!

Wednesday – woke up to pouring rain, got up in pouring rain and drove off to the same. The plan had been to make our way to the puy areas to see the volcanoes and so our first point was to be Le Mont-Dore. We actually stopped a bit before that to see a very swollen Dordogne as it passed through La Bourboule and then had a wet wander into the town but returning with a couple of croissants fresh from the oven! Yes they were very nice thank you. We decided not to stop as we passed through Mont-Dore – it was as wet as the previous town and just about in the clouds – so we said goodbye to the Dordogne valley and headed higher, aiming for the Col de la Morand at 1401metres (though the satnav said it was 1411metres!). 

Visibility 30 metres. Some of the rain was sleet and most of it was almost horizontal! We did not get out or even open the doors. Kept going and eventually ended up at France Passion site 700 metres up and along a single track road to a farmhouse and gite with space for parking a small number of motorhomes – but we were the only ones here at 5.00pm. Made a bit of a mess of the ground as we attempted to park on rain soaked grass. Rain has stopped, cloud has lifted a little, ELO has just played Mr Blue Sky, gite owner assures us that the next day would be a good day and we went off for a short walk. 

Short walk was a couple of hours following the River Allagnon, the beautiful valley of  which we'd driven along to arrive at this particular stopover.

Thursday and camped in Puy en Velay at Municipal site on edge of town. Will send further news tomorrow or Saturday before moving on. Got to go as tea’s ready and this evening it’s July 14th fireworks! 

M&A xxx 

Technical problems - advice would have been welcomed at the time!! 

Electric cable too short to reach electric point which wouldn’t have mattered except ALL pitches paid for electricity anyway! Charged laptop and shaver from 12v to 240v inverter in motorhome however-that worked fine and the 12v was being charged by the sun, so the campsite electricity was a matter of principle really.

Why couldn't I detect wireless networks? Chose one - McDonalds - connected to it (no key needed) and then message showed connected to this network but no internet available! 

France 2011 part 1

5^th July 2011

Very calm crossing on Monday morning on P&O’s newest boat after quiet (and free) night on Marine Parade in Dover on Sunday.

Got to site at Le Bec-Hellouin, Normandy, about 3.45pm where Sue and Blair had pot of tea ready! Lovely people. Sue had also prepared spaghetti bolognese for our tea so what more could we want – just beers and red wine sitting in sun (and awning shade) for the rest of the very warm sunny afternoon and evening. Sorry!

French motorways – empty! Even better on free sections.

Tuesday – stayed in Bec-Hellouin for second night. Very pretty village-almost too tidy and neat - as if it was for sightseeing but not for living in. Visited the Abbaye Notre-Dame Du Bec – an ancient building with wonderful tunnel-like church attached and magnificent separate bell tower. A monk (possibly!) was playing the church organ. Didn’t actually see anyone but heard pages turning between pieces so assumed it was ‘live’, not a recording! The abbey was founded in 1034 by Herluin, a Norman knight who, in about 1031, left the court of Gilbert, Count of Brionne, to devote himself to a life of religion: the commune of Le Bec Hellouin preserves his name. One hundred and thirty-six monks began their profession while Herluin was in charge. http://www.abbayedubec.com/

Steak hache and squeaky beans for tea (Nat!).

On Wednesday we travelled south-west and stayed night for free at a France Passion place -Domaine de la Tufiere - very peaceful and quiet. The vineyard was established in the 14th century by the local monks and has been managed by Jean Claude and Daniele Coignard since 1972 and owned by them since 1989 – 2006 when they passed on their work to their daughter Clarisse and son Frederic. Its 24 hectares are located in the Beaugeois area of the Loire Valley, between Angers and Saumur. The estate is on a south facing slope exposing the vines to fantastic sunlight and wind offering the best quality grapes year on year. Toured the wine cave with Clarisse, bought some wines and walked through the vineyards.

Pasta and ham for tea.

Friday moved into the Dordogne valley to Beaulieu sur Dordogne and a lovely campsite on an island in the river. Our pitch is next to the pebbly beach! Alison is currently resting in her chair on the beach. The village is in superb condition - there’s obviously plenty of money about (from British tourists some of it) and it preserves much of its medieval origins in its architecture.

Thursday - travelled south-west to a late 1940s-built village called Oradour-sur-Glane. Onthe 11th June, 1944, the Nazi’s destroyed the original village and killed, by various means,the whole of the population-over 600 people, burning their bodies afterwards to try to prevent identification. It was an act of revenge! It was an ‘acceptable’ act of war. The perpetrators were later ‘forgiven’. Didn't feel right to take photos somehow but you can find out more here: http://www.oradour.info/